ALONG THE NORTHERN NECK HERITAGE TRAIL

Prior to european settlement, Native Americans had lived on the Northern Neck for at least 10,000 years. By the early 1600's when the Virginia Colony was established, Indian villages dotted the rivers up and down the Tidewater. Rivers such as the Wicomico, Coan and Nomini are named for the native tribes that once inhabited their shores. As the colony began to grow, settlers built farms and towns up and down the rivers of the Northern Neck. The early wilderness trails became the new pathways over which the Northern Neck's long-held frontier spirit would later lead other equally determined men towards their goal of a new and lasting democracy.

THE COLONIAL ERA

Popes Creek Plantation is the birthplace of George Washington. Washington spent his early childhood years at Pope's Creek and later returned as an adolescent to visit his brother, Augustine Jr., who inherited the land. The old home was destroyed by fire in the Revolution. A memorial house, constructed in the 1930's, now stands behind the original home site and is furnished with 18th century antiques.

Today, the George Washington Birthplace National Monument has costumed interpreters that recreate the sights and sounds of eighteenth century planation life at the 550-acre national park honoring the first president of the United States. The birthplace site, Memorial House, burial grounds and visitor center provide insights into the influences that shaped Washington’s character. The park is especially suited for families with picnic grounds and nature walks, even a place for fishing. Open daily from 9 a.m.. to 5 p.m.., except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day. On Pope’s Creek Road, eight miles west of Montross and 38 miles east of Fredericksburg. 1732 Popes Creek Road (Route 204 off Route 3). Call 804-224-1732.

Stratford Hall Plantation was the boyhood home of Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, the brothers who signed the Declaration of Independence. It was built by Thomas Lee c. 1738. In 1807, it also became the birthplace of General Robert E. Lee. In addition to its history, the magnificent architecture of Stratford Hall sets it apart as one of the great houses in America. Using brick made on the site and timber cut from its own virgin forest, builders and craftsmen constructed the H-shaped manor house, its four

dependencies, coach house and stables. The Great Hall in the center of the house is one of the most architecturally significant rooms to survive from colonial America. The 1,670 acre plantation is managed as a working farm with costumed interpreters leading tours through the house. Visitors can follow trails through meadows thick with wildflowers to the bluffs of the Potomac River and visit the restored gristmill. A log cabin dining room serves lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, and dinner - call for hours. The visitor center, gift shop and house are open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day, from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Located on Stratford Hall Rd. near Montross. Call 804-493-8038.

Historic Christ Church was completed c. 1735 by Robert "King" Carter, one of the wealthiest and most influential citizens in colonial America. A National Historic Landmark, Historic Christ Church is recognized as the finest colonial church in North America. The church, built in the shape of a cross, is of massive construction with three foot thick brick walls. Original limestone slabs still pave the floor and a three-level pulpit towers over individually enclosed, high-backed pews. The reception center, museum and gift shop are open April-November. Guided tours are offered Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m., and Sunday 2-5 p.m. The church is open year round. Located at 420 Christ Church Road (Route 646) near Irvington. Call 804-438-6855.

Menokin, built in 1769, was the plantation home of Francis Lightfoot Lee and his wife Rebecca Tayloe.  Francis Lee, raised at Stratford Hall Planation, devoted his life to public service serving in the Virginia House of Burgesses, the Virginia Legislature, and the Continental Congress.

The plantation was given to Francis Lee and his wife Rebecca as a wedding gift by her father John Tayloe II of nearby Mt. Airy. The Lees died without children and the property was left to the heirs of Francis Lee, and later reverted back to the Tayloe family. The property was later sold and eventually donated to the Menokin Foundation. Although now in ruin, Menokin is a remarkable encyclopedia of colonial knowledge. The Menokin Foundation was established to preserve this National Historic Landmark and eventually restore it to its 18th century splendor.  For group tours of this preservation work in progress call 804-333-1776.

COURTHOUSE VILLAGES AND MARKET TOWNS

During the 1700's and 1800's "Court Days" were rousing times around the old courthouse squares. Local inns and taverns were at the center of activity, and the jails were busy! Start your tour in King George County for a glimpse of those bygone times and visit our picturesque county seats, or "courthouse towns" as they're known in Virginia.

The King George County Museum and Research Center is located in the Old Jail (c. ??) next to the county courthouse on King’s Highway. Named for King George I of England, the county was formed by an act of assembly passed November 24, 1720. Split off from Richmond County, King George County came into being on April 23, 1721. Famous sons include president James Madison born at Port Conway and "Extra Billy" Smith, two-time governor of Virginia, who was in office when Richmond fell in 1865. King George County is also site of the death of the first Union naval officer, Commander James Harman Ward, who was killed at Mathias Point on June 10, 1861. John Wilkes Booth fled through the county after Lincoln’s assassination, and was captured just across the Rappahannock River. The King George County Museum and Research Center is located in the Old Jail at 9483 Kings Highway. Open from March-October, Thurs. and Sat., 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; November-February, Sat., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Also open by appointment. Closed 2 weeks for Christmas; Easter, Memorial Day, Independence Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving weekend. Call (540) 775-9477.

On the square by the side of the old Westmoreland County Courthouse in Montross sits the Westmoreland County Museum and Visitor Center. Special exhibits highlight county history, especially the contributions of its native sons, presidents George Washington, James Madison, and James Monroe. The historical society maintains a library upstairs with extensive historical and genealogical research materials. The lovely brick-walled Presidents Garden, created by the Westmoreland Garden Club offers a peaceful oasis in the summertime. Pick up a walking tour map and be sure to visit the old courthouse, with a portion dating to c. 1707, and the Inn at Montross, still providing meals and lodging to weary travelers. Museum and visitor center open from April-November Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.; From November – March 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Polk Street in Montross. Call 804-493-8440.

One of the best and oldest surviving examples of a colonial courthouse tavern is Rice's Hotel/Hughlett's Tavern in Heathsville. By 1795, visitors to Northumberland County were taking their refreshment at Hughlett’s Tavern built just behind the courthouse. The original three-room tavern was expanded over many years to the existing

24-room, 100-foot long two-story structure later known as Rice’s Hotel. This national historic landmark has just been restored and is open as a community gathering place with a restaurant, museum and gift shop. Visitors may also tour the Old Jail (c. 1844). Call 804-580-3536 for hours. 

Just behind the Old Jail, the Northumberland County Historical Society’s Ball Memorial Library houses extensive primary-source genealogical and historical records and a small museum. Open Tues-Thurs. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; other days by appointment. (804) 580-8581.

The town of Kilmarnock has long been the commercial hub of the lower Northern Neck.  Shops line Main Street and in the old days, steamboats carrying passengers and freight docked at Kilmarnock Wharf on Indian Creek.  Today pleasure boats have replaced the steamers, but grain is still shipped by barge from the wharf.   At the Kilmarnock Museum, exhibits of photographs and artifacts recall the early days of this bustling town first known as Steptoe's Ordinary when it was settled in 1719.  Open Wed.-Sat. 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. North Main St. Call 804-435-0874.

George Washington's mother was born at Epping Forest, near the village of Lancaster Courthouse, and the Mary Ball Washington Museum was named in her honor. The museum in the Lancaster House (c.1800) offers a wide range of exhibits concerning life in Lancaster County over its 350 years. An extensive collection of original historical and genealogical material draws many people each year researching their early Virginia roots. Visitors may also tour the Old Clerk's Office (c. 1797) and the Old Jail (1820) which displays the living quarters of the 1828 jailer and a criminal cell c. 1830. Walking tour brochures of the Lancaster Courthouse Historic District are available at the museum. Open 9 a.m.-5p.m. Tuesday-Friday; the library is open Wed-Sat - 10-4.. Located at 8346 Mary Ball Road in Lancaster Courthouse. Call 804-462-7280.

Up the road in Lively is St. Mary’s White Chapel Church (1669), the church of the Ball family and the oldest church in Lancaster County. The burial grounds in the churchyard are over 300 years old, the oldest marked grave being 1698. Within the grounds also rest the remains of many of the Ball family. The Church may also be visited by appointment, call 804-462-7371.

Established in 1692, when old Rappahannock County was divided, Richmond County's seat was simply named Richmond County Courthouse, and was located along the shore of the Rappahannock River. In 1730, it was moved inland to the intersection of the major crossroads of the Northern Neck, and in 1748, the present Palladian style Courthouse was built. In 1831, the name of the town was changed to Warsaw in sympathy with the Polish struggle for independence.

It offers a walking tour of Warsaw and suggested points of interest throughout the county. Visitor information is also available. Exhibits include Menokin, home of Francis Lightfoot Lee. The Richmond County Museum is open Feb. 1 to mid-Dec, Wed.-Sat., 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. As of March 1999, the museum move from the Old Clerk's Office to the Old Jail on Courthouse Green. The Old Clerk's Office and the Old Jail are at the junction of Routes 3 and 360 in Warsaw. Call 804-333-3607 or 804-394-4901.

MARITIME HERITAGE

By the 1880's the Northern Neck economy was booming. Steamboats out of Baltimore and Norfolk plied the Chesapeake Bay, stopping at wharves all up and down the rivers carrying the products of the farms and fish and vegetable canneries to the city markets and bringing back manufactured goods. Communities sprang up at these wharf towns with general stores, post offices and hotels to serve the traveling public. Vacation excursions became popular, and visitors came from the cities to spend a week at tourist homes and hotels along the rivers. In 1907, a steamship company catalog offered transportation and room and board for $1 a day!

Kinsale, on the Yeocomico River in Westmoreland County, was known as a ship building center in the early years and later became one of the many thriving steamboat landings during the late 19th century. The small village was twice hit by war. The first time during the war of 1812 during which the town was occupied and burned by the British. Later, during the Civil war, Kinsale served as a base of operations for blockade runners. The area known as Shingle Hill which is situated above the village was bombarded by the Union Navy.

The Kinsale Museum, housed in an 18^th Century pub, visitors can view exhibits and artifacts that chronicle those exciting times. A walking tour of the historic village is available at the museum.  Open year-round - Fridays and Saturdays 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM and open May 1 to October 31 on Sundays 1pm-5pm. On Rt. 203. Call 804-472-3001

Visitors can learn about the heritage of the Chesapeake Bay’s watermen and their unique boats at the Port Kinsale Maritime Museum. Tour the skipjack Virginia W. and witness her restoration. Built in 1904 she is listed in the national register and is one of the oldest remaining skipjacks on the Bay. At Port Kinsale Marina, Rt. 608. Call 804-472-2044.

By the 1880s, the Northern Neck's economy was booming. Steamboats out of Baltimore and Norfolk plied the Chesapeake Bay, carrying farm products and manufactured goods to and from the communities along the rivers. In 1867, Elijah Reed, a New England sea captain, followed schools of menhaden fish into the Chesapeake Bay and founded the thriving fishing community of Reedville on Cockrell's Creek.

Self-guided walking/driving tour brochures available. The Reedville Fishermen's Museum is open daily except Tuesdays, May-October. Open Friday-Monday, November-December & March-April. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Located at 504 Main Street, Reedville. Call 804-453-6529.

Steamboat Era Museum. Steamboat Era Museum is located in historic Irvington, at 156 King Carter Drive. Created to preserve, educate, and interprete the era of the steamboats which plied the waters of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. Theatre, interactive video stations, dioramas, artifacts, models, paintings and photos. Current exhibit "the Bay at War" tells of the steamboats and the Tidewater area during the Civil War. Museum hours Thurs-Sat - 10-4. Sunday 1-4. Member of the Time Travelers. 804-438-6888.

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   Last updated: January 25, 2006